There are many other non-prescription topicals for sale in stores or on the Net that claim to improve the health of the skin. Most are simply expensive cosmetics that may temporarily improve the appearance of the epidermis without affecting skin biology. Unless you can confirm that these products are supported by medical studies published in a peer-reviewed medical journal, you shouldn't waste any money on them. You will probably be able to get the same effects with low-cost products such as moisturizers.

One reasonable and safe strategy would be to use a cosmetic acid nightly for six to 12 months (depending on concentration), and thereafter only once per week. Another very effective strategy recommended by some doctors is alternate use of a cosmetic acid and tretinoin.

Low-concentration alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs) and salicylic acid (called cosmetic acids) are chemicals promoted to improve signs of photoaging such as rough skin surface texture, fine lines, and uneven pigmentation. Home use of cosmetic acids originally became popular because they provide quick results on areas of rough skin by peeling off or exfoliating the upper layers of the epidermis, exposing smoother skin underneath.

In addition, numerous medical studies have also shown that use of low-concentration cosmetic acids results in improvements to the structure of the epidermis and the upper dermis and modest improvements in skin texture and fine lines. They may also stimulate the growth of collagen.

Copper peptide has been shown in a number of medical studies to promote healing of the skin. A few studies have also suggested that it can improve collagen in the dermis. (See the Web address below for references.)

It may have some value as an antiaging skin treatment. There are some positive Net reviews of copper peptide, with some people reporting smoother skin texture or improvement in some types of scars. However, others report only a slight effect. Currently, the positive medical evidence for copper peptide as a treatment for photoaging is not nearly as extensive as for tretinoin.

Products With Copper Peptide

Retinol is another name for a form of vitamin A. This can be confusing because the word "retinol" sounds like the tretinoin brand, Retin-A. Retinol is not nearly as effective as tretinoin, but medical studies have shown that stabilized forms of retinol do have some positive effects when applied to the skin.

The studies show that if the retinol penetrates, some may be converted by enzymes in the skin to small amounts of tretinoin, thereby producing similar effects such as improved collagen and a thickened epidermis.

See for example "In Vitro Metabolism by Human Skin and Fibroblasts of Retinol, Retinal and Retinoic Acid," Experimental Dermatology, 7(1), 27-34, 1998 Feb (abstract available on Medline).